In the autumn, you can detect a unique fragrance carried on the cool breezes: the scent of pine mushrooms.  The season for pine mushrooms, so named because they grow among the roots of pine trees, is between August and October, and they are at their most flavourful in the first half of September.  Even though Song-i mushrooms are indigenous to several countries, including Korea, China, Japan, and Canada, the Korean variety has a lower water content, giving it a richer flavor and its characteristic aroma, for which it is recognized as the most outstanding worldwide.  The wonderful fragrance and robust autumnal flavour of the Korean pine mushroom rival those of the best-loved of all Western mushrooms, the truffle.

The Tantalizing Aroma and Flavor of an Autumn Delicacy, the Pine Mushroom
Unlike other mushrooms that grow on dead trees, pine mushrooms grow only on the roots of living pine trees that are between 20 and 60 years and grow in mountainous areas.  They do not grow in the same spot twice. They grow most vigorously at temperatures of between 18 and 24 degrees Celsius and can be found in acidic soils, mainly in the Taebaek and Sobaek mountains on the east coast of Korea.  When the temperature is around 19 degrees Celsius in June and July, pine mushrooms can be harvested in summer, but these mushrooms cannot compare in flavour or aroma to those harvested in autumn.   Pine mushrooms are extremely finicky about their growing conditions, making them very difficult to cultivate.  As a result, they are somewhat expensive.

The pine mushrooms that are considered the best have a cap which does not open outwards and a stalk that is long and thick.  The best have a cap with a slightly larger circumference than that of the stalk, a stalk that is long and thicker at its base, and are clear silver-white in colour.  Pine mushrooms that are over 8 cm in length and have a cap that hardly protrudes at all are given a ‘grade-A’ rating.  Only the freshest pine mushrooms have the distinctive flavour and aroma of pine resin that is so sought-after by epicures worldwide.

Pine mushrooms take their nourishment directly from pine trees and absorb many nutrients from the soil, so they are rich in minerals and are very moist.  In addition, they contain lentinan and antioxidants, which strengthen the immune system, and contain abundant vitamins and minerals, so they are renowned for being very healthful.

When harvesting pine mushrooms, one must be careful not to damage the roots of the pine trees and thereby kill the newly-developing mushrooms nearby.  So, they are carefully dug out with a flat wooden paddle, and the soil is then replaced and lightly tamped down.

Pine mushrooms are usually eaten roasted or seasoned, normally as an accompaniment to rice and stew. They are also added to a variety of dishes to intensify the flavors, and in South Korea, meat is often served with pine mushrooms.  Clearly, pine mushrooms are used often in cooking, but they are also excellent eaten freshly picked, which allows their pine flavour and aroma to be properly appreciated.
Among the places where Korean pine mushrooms are found, the two areas that are generally considered to produce the best are Bonghwa and Yangyang, and each year both areas hold a pine mushroom festival between September and October.

Let’s Experience Pine Mushrooms

<Yangyang Aromatic Pine Mushroom Festival>
Yangyang, in Gangwon-do, produces more than 80% of Korea’s annual pine mushroom harvest, with mushrooms that have a richer pine fragrance and fuller flavour than others due to the lower moisture content, and are larger because of the region’s well-developed pine forests and weathered granite soil.

The 2010 Yangyang Pine Festival, which will be held in Yangyang Namdae-cheon from September 24th and 28th, is an event that provides an opportunity to learn about and experience pine mushrooms.  There is a mountain ecology field trip that gives hands-on experience identifying and picking wild pine mushrooms and also teaches the importance of environmental conservation and the excellence of Yangyang pine mushrooms, and there is also an experience program that is like a treasure hunt for pine mushrooms in the mountains, as well as a chance to sample many of the dishes made with pine mushrooms, traditional music performances, and an open-air wholesale market.

There will also be special events for foreigners to give them the opportunity to comfortably enjoy all sorts of hands-on events related to picking and sampling pine mushrooms.  There is a 2-hour talk by a professional guide, as well as lots of great hands-on events, so this is an enjoyable and popular program.  To participate, registration by phone or via the Internet should be received in advance.  The registration period for the 2010 festival is from October 1st  to 14th, and the fee is 30,000 won for adults and 15,000 won for children. The hands-on pine mushroom experience and sampling event for foreigners runs September 15th to October 14th.

<Natural Fragrance, Bonghwa Pine Mushroom Festival>
Because they grow in the weathered granite Masa soil of the foothills of the Taebaek mountains, the pine mushrooms of Bonghwa have a lower moisture content than those from other regions, giving them an excellent flavour and a chewy texture.  Bonghwa is the region where one finds Chunyang-mok, a type of pine tree with hard, red wood and a very pleasant smell, which grows best in the high mountain areas around Chunyang and Socheon-myeon.  Bonghwa pine mushrooms grow on these Chunyang-mok, which impart a more intense pine flavour than other pine mushrooms have.  Each year, the Bonghwa region produces about  80 tons of mushrooms, accounting for about 15% of the total national crop.

This year marks the 14th Bonghwa pine mushrooms festival and will include various events related to pine mushrooms, like pine mushroom picking, pine mushroom bowling, and a pine mushroom exhibition, as well as a food fairs and an agricultural market where you can purchase pine mushrooms and other local produce of Bonghwa.  With a family program which includes a photo zone and clay sculpting, the festival is sure to be an enjoyable experience for all ages.

The most popular event at the pine mushroom festival is the mushroom picking which is held twice daily at 10:00 am and 2:00 pm.  A guide leads you for between 30 minutes and an hour, during which time you can observe wild pine mushrooms in their natural habitat and pick your own, so the event is very popular.  Reservations must be made between August 20 to September 20, and admission is free.  Each participant can pick 2 pine mushrooms, but more are available for purchase.

The Bonghwa Pine Mushrooms Festival runs September 30th to October 3rd in the area between Bonghwa-eup Sports Hall and Song-I mountain.

Having fresh pine mushrooms, with their tantalizing aroma and flavour, is certainly a fantastic way to enjoy autumn.